How Often Should I Exfoliate My Face? Dermatologists Weigh In

On a base level, every skincare routine should consist of cleansing and moisturizing. And while cleansing is a must in order to keep skin clear and healthy, it's not always enough. Enter another crucial step: exfoliation. If you're a minimalist who wants to keep things at a minimum, you can actually get exfoliation benefits each time you wash your face with the right cleanser, but is that enough or too much?

To answer all of your burning exfoliation questions for healthy, glowing skin—like how often you do it and what ingredients to use—we spoke to two top dermatologists and a celebrity esthetician. Below, read all about the benefits of exfoliating your face, the different types of exfoliants, and the important ingredients you should look for when trying a new product.

What Does Exfoliating Do?

"Exfoliating helps to get rid of dead skin cells, which leaves the skin feeling softer and smoother, looking more radiant while also improving the overall appearance of skin tone and texture. Exfoliating can help to brighten the skin and improve discoloration. By getting rid of dead skin cells, exfoliating also helps to prevent clogged pores," explains board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD.

Benefits

Regular exfoliation has a plethora of benefits for all skin types. For those prone to blemishes and clogged pores, exfoliation should be the main focus of your routine, according to celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau. There are a few different types of exfoliants (which we'll get to in a second), but for these acne-prone skin types, Rouleau recommends using a chemical exfoliant formulated with beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), which will work "to reduce bacteria on the skin while exfoliating and cleaning clogged pores."

Exfoliation is also important for anti-aging. For those concerned about wrinkles, Rouleau says, "As you increase your exfoliation, you are tricking the skin into acting young again." Retinoic acid and retinol are special types of exfoliants that work particularly well within deeper layers of the skin. "With continued use, skin will look younger and smoother each day," she says.

Plus, for all skin types, exfoliation simply gives the face an instant glow, both by clearing away the dead skin cells that cause dullness and by allowing your other anti-aging products to penetrate the skin more effectively.

Which Type of Exfoliator Is Best?

Spoiler alert: There's no 100% objective answer as to which type of exfoliator is the best, though most experts do caution you away from over-exfoliating with physical scrubs.

Now for the types of exfoliants; physical exfoliants (like face scrubs and clay masks) and chemical exfoliants (like acid serums and peels). There are also products that incorporate both.

Rouleau's favorite type of exfoliator is a leave-on acid serum (formulated with BHAs and AHAs), which is super effective at brightening skin and clearing pores without irritation. "When applied to the skin, [the serum] lowers the pH of the skin… and starts to dissolve and digest the cells both on the surface and deeper within the skin—without having to scrub and tug at the skin the way you have to with physical exfoliators."

Garshick adds, "Personally, I like to use chemical exfoliants, but physical exfoliants can also be used as long as it is gentle on the skin. It is important that physical exfoliants are not too harsh on the skin and will not cause any microtears in the skin."

If you're more of a mask fan, board-certified dermatologist Daniel Behroozan, MD, says PCA Skin makes some amazing ones for exfoliation. "Their Purifying Mask ($68) uses pumice, red clay, and algae to pull out any debris stuck in the pores," he says, "The pumice adds a nice grit to the mask that leaves the skin really soft." The brand also has the Revitalizing Mask ($68), which offers natural chemical exfoliation using papaya enzymes meant to eat away any dead skin cells on the surface of the skin.

How Often Should You Exfoliate Your Face?

Ideally, you should exfoliate your face about two to three times a week, and no more. A great routine to shoot for is using an acid serum two to three nights a week, plus a weekly mask or peel. You may have heard only once a week, but dermatologists say that for most skin types, that's not enough to encourage that extra, dull layer of skin cells to slough away.

Which Ingredients to Look For

When choosing an exfoliator, it's important to look for expert-approved ingredients. Garshick recommends looking for products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acid, or beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid. Plant enzymes used in skincare, like papaya, pineapple, and pomegranate, are also potential natural exfoliators for sensitive skin types.

If you're looking for physical exfoliation, try natural ingredients like pumice, poppy seeds, and jojoba oil beads.