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How to Apply Eyeliner Like a Professional Based on Your Eye Shape

A woman with winged eyeliner on top and gems lining her lower lash line

Stocksy

No matter where you are in your makeup journey—whether you're a newbie who's still learning or a total whiz—one thing we all know to be universally true is the importance of eye makeup. How you wear your eyeshadow and eyeliner can fully transform your look, but considering that we all have different eye shapes, it's also true that there's no one-size-fits-all approach.

How someone with almond-shaped eyes does their winged liner will be completely different than how someone with hooded eyes does theirs, so to give just one set of tips wouldn't be helpful. So, in order to make sure we're helping everybody achieve the eyeliner of their dreams, it's vital to break down the best ways for each eye shape to do so.

We tapped three professional makeup artists to help teach us how each eye shape should approach their eyeliner. (Remember though, these are only suggestions as there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to makeup and self-expression.) Below, we've outlined each eye shape and have included expert tips on how you may want to consider approaching your eyeliner the next time you do your makeup.

Meet the Expert

How to Do Eyeliner on Almond-Shaped Eyes:

Good news for those with almond-shaped eyes: You can try pretty much any eyeliner look and it will flatter your eyes. Its versatile shape means you can get away with all sorts of different makeup looks. With that said, celebrity makeup artist, Jessica Elbaum, recommends that people with almond-shaped eyes apply eyeliner on the outer corner edge, starting three-quarters of the way along your lid. "Another great way to show off almond eyes is tight lining eyeliner in the water line under the lashes—this really makes them pop," she adds. For this, use a product formulated specifically for the waterline, like Sisley's Phyto-Kol Star Matte Eyeliner ($56).

How to Do Eyeliner on Hooded Eyes:

"When applying eyeliner, especially if opting for a winged look, I advocate for a less-is-more approach," says Los-Angeles-based makeup artist, Tony Aviña. "By starting with tight-lining, you can subtly define the inner corners of the eyes before gradually building thickness towards the outer edge of the upper lash line. Avoid excessive thickness that could transfer onto the upper lid." 

Furthermore, he suggests exploring the puppy liner trend. "Starting by following the natural shape of the eye slightly downward instead of winging upwards," he says.

How to Do Eyeliner on Monolids:

"With a monolid, you should extend the liner right out, almost as far as the eyebrow. Be sure to exaggerate the wing too—give it a good flick! This will give your eyes the most shape and definition," suggests makeup artist, Celia Burton. She adds that you can make the line as thick as you want.

How to Do Eyeliner on Large Eyes:

Elbaum says the best eyeliner style for big eyes is a thicker line with a little wing. "Leave the lower lash line bare and go with a dramatic cat eye on the upper lash line," she suggests. With that said, she adds that people with large eyes can pretty much get away with any type of eyeliner look depending on the effect you want to have.

How to Do Eyeliner on Small Eyes:

First things first, avoid dark and heavy eye makeup. Instead, opt for softer colors that aren't as bold or harsh. Elbaum suggests using a brown liner and smudging it into your lash line. "[This] can help make your lashes look fuller and has an opening effect on smaller eyes," she explains. Furthermore, she suggests using the tight line technique on just the waterline on the top lash to give the eyes more definition and give off the illusion of fuller lashes. Finish off with an eyelash curler and mascara to open up your eyes.

How to Do Eyeliner on Downturned Eyes:

With eyeliner for downturned eyes, it's all about keeping them lifted. "A downturned eye needs to be drawn up and out instead of out and down," says Burton. "You'll need to exaggerate the flick, giving it a dramatic angle at the end." For the best look, Aviña says to start your application at the outer part of your bottom lash line upward toward your brows and connect to the top lid. 

How to Do Eyeliner on Deep-Set Eyes:

Elbaum says to avoid putting dark eyeliner in the inner corner of the eyes as this can make them look smaller. "Instead focus on the outer section," she suggests. Burton says to apply liquid liner at the highest point of your eye's curve, and drag it outwards. "Stop the liner just after your lashes do. If you make the liner too long, it will weigh the eye down when what we want is to open and lift it," she adds. And in terms of color, Elbaum suggests playing around. "Applying the right colors in the right places can make all the difference in making your eyes stand out," she adds. "Using a light color on the inside corner of your eyes will draw attention to your eye color. Use a pop of color for the outer corners." 

How to Do Eyeliner on Round-Shaped Eyes:

If you have round eyes, your application should be about elongating the eyes to balance their appearance. Line the upper lash line and play up the outer corners with either a long, extended wing or by smudging dark liner into both the upper and lower lash lines. " If you want to make your eyes less rounded, I would apply a dark eyeliner on the upper, lower, and water line and smudge the lines for a softer effect," recommends Aviña.

How to Do Eyeliner on Asymmetrical Eyes:

News flash: All eyes are asymmetrical. However, for some of us, it's more pronounced than for others. If you're interested in trying to make your eyes more similar in shape and size, eyeliner is a great tool. Simply apply a thicker amount of liner to the outer portion of your smaller eye to create the illusion of width.

How to Do Eyeliner on Close-Set Eyes:

For people with this eye shape, Burton says the goal is to create the illusion of more space in between the eyes. To do this, Aviña recommends keeping the inner eyeliner light and nude as this contributes to a fresh, open-eyed look. "A classic wing is perfect for them," he adds. "Start your eyeliner look from the middle of your lids, rather than the inner corners, and bring the eyeliner out to your desired shape." 

"With a close-set eye, you need to keep the inner half of your eyelid clean to create more space between the eyes. Apply a thin line, starting from the middle and moving outwards, keeping it very close to the lashes," advises Burton. "Give it a little flick, but nothing too dramatic. Make this more interesting with loads of mascara on the outer lashes; try Eyeko's Black Magic Mascara ($24) to add length and drama."

How to Do Eyeliner on Wide-Set Eyes:

"A wide-set eye requires a similar approach to that of a large eye shape—you can close in on some of the space by using a dark color along the lash line and in the waterline," suggests Burton. "Start right at the tear duct, and pull the eyeliner across and out, lifting it with a good flick at the edge. Do the same underneath the eye; line it close to the lash line, and smudge it with a cotton bud before it dries. Not many eyes can get away with what you can, so apply enthusiastically and enjoy it!"

Eyeliner Tips for All Eye Shapes:

To put it simply, the options are endless. If your basic skills with an eye pencil or eyeliner brush could use a little improvement (aka your ability to get the line straight is lacking), try the connect-the-dots method or smudging the liner out for a smokey shadow look. Just dot the liner as close to your lash line as possible, and then blend the dots together to create one smooth stroke. You'll get a straight line with this technique, regardless of your eye shape.

For under-eye application, use a long-wear formula that doesn't smudge or transfer, such as GXVE's 24-Hour Line It Up Gel Eyeliner ($20) which Aviña swears does not budge or smudge into under-eye creases. For cat eyes, use a liquid formula with a narrow felt tip that packs on the pigment and allows for a sharp flick, such as Sisley's So Intense Eyeliner ($83).

FAQ
  • How do you apply winged eyeliner for deep-set eyes?

    If you have deep-set eyes, your eyes sit back into your brow bone when you look at your profile from the side. Winged eyeliner looks great on deep-set eyes —as long as you follow a few rules. Use a liquid eyeliner to apply a thin line just above your lash line. As you come to the corner, make it a bit thicker and add a thin winged line going up. In general, keep the eyeliner thin, as thick eyeliner will make your eyes look more deep-set. To further open up your eyes, don’t put eyeliner on your bottom lid. 

  • Should you put eyeliner on your bottom lid?

    Yes, but sparingly. Use a light hand to apply liner to the outer portion of your eyelid. Don’t apply thick liner all the way across as it can make your eyes appear heavy and smaller. Use a beige eyeliner on your waterline to further brighten and open up your eyes. An eye pencil is easier to use than a gel or liquid liner, as the line doesn’t need to be perfect.

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