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There's a good chance you're here because you stumbled upon some information about dermaplaning and are eager to learn more. So, let's start with the basics: Dermaplaning is a procedure where a licensed professional uses a scalpel to exfoliate your facial skin and remove fine hair. But no—it's absolutely not the same thing as shaving.
We tapped three board-certified dermatologists—Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, Melanie Palm, MD, and Justine H. Park, MD—to learn more about the glow-inducing treatment. Read on for everything you need to know about dermaplaning.
Meet the Expert
- Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, is a cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics in New York City.
- Melanie Palm, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California.
- Justine H. Park, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Skin & Beauty Center in Los Angeles.
How It Works
Dermaplaning is a non-invasive skincare procedure where your provider (often a dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or licensed aesthetician) uses a surgical scalpel to gently exfoliate the top layers of your skin and remove fine facial hair, ideally leaving your skin and complexion brighter and more even.
"Dermaplaning is also known as a scalpel facial because it consists of using a scalpel blade to scrape off, and thereby exfoliate, the top layers of skin, along with any hair or peach fuzz," Park explains. "Although it involves using a scalpel blade, no actual incisions are made. Rather, the blade [scrapes] the skin without cutting it."
Though dermaplaning is generally safe and doesn't cause pain, Palm notes the treatment should only be administered by a trained professional in a sterile environment with the proper protocols in place.
Benefits
Some of the benefits of dermaplaning include:
- Smoother skin: Dermaplaning removes rough and dead skin, leaving many people with a smoother complexion and a more even base for applying makeup. "Many of my clients seek this treatment before a big event, like a wedding or a holiday party," Palm says.
- Better absorption: Dermaplaning allows skincare products to penetrate more deeply into the skin, sometimes making your skincare products more effective.
- Brighter skin: Dermaplaning helps minimize the appearance of fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation.
- Hair removal: Dermaplaning temporarily removes fine facial hair (AKA vellus hair or "peach fuzz"), which can trap dirt and oil.
Who It's For
Dermaplaning is generally a safe procedure. It's a good option if you have dry or rough skin, an uneven skin tone, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, large pores, or fine facial hair.
But for some people, dermaplaning may be worth skipping. For example, there's a chance that people with sensitive skin or eczema may experience irritation or an allergic reaction after a dermaplaning treatment. It's also not a good idea for people to get this treatment if they have any open wounds or infections in the area that's being treated.
Keep in mind that dermaplaning is most effective when it's done in moderation. "Dermaplaning too often—more often than every four weeks—is not recommended due to the potential for taking down too many layers of the skin," Park says.
How to Prepare
Interested in dermaplaning but not sure how to go about it? Start by asking your dermatologist to recommend a provider who offers this treatment. "Dermaplaning is performed by experienced and licensed aesthetician[s]," Park says. "Complications are rare, but you should seek an experienced and reputable provider to minimize the chance of any issues arising after the procedure."
Once your dermaplaning appointment is on the calendar, avoid harsh and exfoliating skincare products for a few days before the treatment. This can help prevent irritation.
What to Expect
Here's what you can expect during a dermaplaning treatment:
- First, your provider will thoroughly cleanse (and possibly steam) your skin to remove any makeup, oils, and dirt. "While steaming the face isn't necessary... it can help loosen dirt and sebum and make the skin easier to work with," Palm says.
- Next, your provider will use a pre-treatment solution to prepare your skin for exfoliation. Typically, this is an antiseptic, alcohol-based solution that helps remove impurities on the skin.
- Using a sterile surgical blade held at a 45-degree angle, your provider will gently shave upward to scrape off the top layer of dead skin cells and fine hairs. Working in sections, the treatment is performed with careful feathering strokes.
- Lastly, using a cloth and warm water, your provider will wipe away excess hairs and then treat the skin with products such as hydrating and calming serums with ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which help lock in moisture. (For some of our favorite hyaluronic acid serums, check out our roundup.)
Many dermatologists recommend skipping makeup for about 24 hours and staying out of the sun for a few days after your treatment. "Since your skin will be freshly exfoliated, we also recommend waiting a few days before using skincare products with exfoliating ingredients, like retinol, AHAs, and BHAs," Palm says. "It is also important to apply sunscreen daily."
Aftercare
When performed properly, dermaplaning treatments shouldn't involve any pain or downtime. "You may experience some short-term redness following the treatment, but this should resolve by the next day," Palm says. Some people also experience fine white bumps on their skin immediately after the procedure, but Park says these usually only last a day or so.
After a dermaplaning treatment, you'll want to avoid the sun and excessive heat for about a week. "Also, avoid any exfoliation for one week after the procedure, such as using tretinoin cream or salicylic acid," Park says.
Chin shares a few more recommendations: "Definitely use gentle skincare products and apply sunscreen diligently, as the skin will be more sensitive to UV exposure," she says.
Results and Maintenance
The results from a dermaplaning treatment typically last about three weeks. "Many choose to do this monthly, depending on skin type" and facial hair growth, Chin says.
Risks and Considerations
Generally, dermaplaning doesn't carry many risks or complications. One rare complication that sometimes occurs is a skin infection. "If this happens, it is generally superficial and not very dangerous. However, it could require treatment with topical or oral medications," Park says. "There is a very slight chance that the infection could spread and become highly virulent."
Some other potential complications include scarring and skin discoloration, but these aren't common.
The Final Takeaway
Dermaplaning involves using a small scalpel to exfoliate the top layers of facial skin and remove fine "peach fuzz"-type facial hair. Many people have this procedure performed every four to six weeks, and it really shouldn't be done more frequently than that. "Allowing at least four weeks between treatments ensures that the skin heals between sessions," Park says.
The risks associated with dermaplaning are minimal, but there is a chance of infection. "This is why it's critical to get dermaplaning done by a trained and licensed professional [experienced] with this procedure," Palm says. "I definitely would advise against doing this at home on your own."